GETTING HERE AND AWAY

Once you’re in the country, one easy mid-range way to get around is to use Paxeo, a shuttle service to and from Managua, Granada, San Juan Del Sur, or any major destination in Nicaragua. Their drivers are friendly, and the comfortable white vans are air-conditioned. Everyone in the office speaks English, so call to make a reservation.

Getting to El Castillo is an adventure, no matter how you choose to do it. The easiest way is to book a 45 minute flight from Managua across the lake to San Carlos with La Costeña, Nicaragua’s domestic airline. From there, catch a boat down the river to El Castillo. Try to catch a fast boat; 1.5 hours as opposed to 3.

For the more intrepid traveler the overnight ferry across the lake from Granada takes about 15 hours. A suggestion would be to fly to San Carlos, visit the river, then return back to Granada on the ferry. San Carlos to Granada is usually calmer than going in the opposing direction, and you can enjoy the sunset over Ometepe this way. But be sure to book first class (upstairs) for a few extra dollars. You can use your hammock to sleep outside on deck unless you enjoy watching ‘Jaws’ and ‘Lake Placid’ all night in the overly air-conditioned cabin. Someone there has a sense of humor. Another way to get to Ometepe is the smaller ferry from San Jorge. Plan to spend at least a few nights. Try these progressive and interesting lodgings, Hacienda Merida.

Surfacing from Costa Rica is also a great experience. Catch a bus to the border town of Los Chiles (make sure all your travel papers are in order) where you’ll be able to enjoy a 2 hour boat ride up the Rio Frio to San Carlos and your connecting boat ride back down the Rio San Juan. It’s a beautiful, relaxing ride, and there’s no shortage of wildlife to look at on the way. Further information found on The Lonely Planet Guide to Los Chiles.